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Refrigerator Has Frost or Ice Buildup

The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Refrigerator has frost or ice buildup are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.

Most Frequent Causes for Refrigerator has frost or ice buildup

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Cause 1Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

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Cause 2Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.

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Cause 3Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to shut off properly. If the water pressure is too low, the valve may not close fully once the power is shut off. As a result, the valve will leak water into the ice maker and cause the ice maker to overflow. Check the water pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, the water inlet valve is likely defective. The valve may not shut off all the way or may be stuck open, causing water to leak through the valve. If the water pressure is sufficient, but the ice maker is still overflowing, replace the water inlet valve.

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Cause 4Fan Motor

If the refrigerator's defrost drain is clogged, it's possible the evaporator fan motor is not working. If the evaporator fan is not running, cold air from the evaporator can migrate to the defrost drain causing ice buildup in the drain. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

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Cause 5Drain Strap

Some defrost drains are outfitted with a drain strap. The drain strap is a small piece of copper or aluminum that attaches to the defrost heater and extends partway into the defrost drain. When the defrost heater turns on, heat is conducted through the drain strap to melt away any ice that may have accumulated further down in the defrost drain. If the drain strap is not in place, the defrost drain may be more likely to freeze over.

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Cause 6Evaporator Fan Motor

If the refrigerator's defrost drain is clogged, it's possible the evaporator fan motor is not working. If the evaporator fan is not running, cold air from the evaporator can migrate to the defrost drain causing ice buildup in the drain. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

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Cause 7Ice Bucket Assembly

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Cause 8Drain Heater

Some refrigerators are equipped with drain heaters. Drain heaters prevent the water in the drain pan from re-freezing and clogging the defrost drain. If your drain heater is defective or is not in the proper position, the defrost drain might freeze over.

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Cause 9Ice Maker Assembly

One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly.

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Cause 10Auger Motor

The auger motor spins the auger blade and pushes the ice through the dispenser chute. If the auger motor is burned out or defective, the ice won’t move forward and fall through the chute. To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multimeter to test the auger motor for continuity. If the auger motor does not have continuity, or if the motor is getting power but won’t run, replace the auger motor.

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Cause 11Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

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Cause 12Defrost Thermostat

The defrost thermostat monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. When the coils drop below a set temperature, the thermostat contacts close to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost thermostat is defective, the thermostat contacts will not close. As a result, the thermostat won’t provide power to the defrost heater. To determine if the defrost thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity when it reaches the low temperature of its operating range, replace it.

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Cause 13Thermistor

A thermistor monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. If the coils are below a set temperature, the thermistor will alert the defrost control to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the thermistor is defective, the defrost control will not be alerted to allow voltage to be sent to the defrost heater.

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Cause 14Defrost Sensor with Fuse

The defrost sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator. The defrost sensor has a fuse to back up the sensor in case the sensor fails. If the defrost sensor fails to shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow in order to shut off the defrost heater. If the defrost sensor fuse blows, the defrost system will not work, and the refrigerator will not defrost. The defrost sensor fuse is not resettable—if the defrost sensor fuse blows, you must replace the defrost sensor. To determine if the defrost sensor or fuse is defective, use a multimeter to test both the sensor and fuse for continuity. If either the defrost sensor or fuse does not have continuity, replace the defrost sensor.

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Cause 15Main Control Board

The main control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the main control board.

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Cause 16Control Board

The control board regulates the power supply to all of the refrigerator components, including the defrost system. If the main control board is defective, it may stop sending voltage to the defrost system. Control boards are frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the main control, first test all of the defrost system components. If none of the defrost system components are defective, consider replacing the control board.

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Cause 17Mullion Heater

French door refrigerators will often use a mullion heater flap which flips open as the two main doors are closed to provide a proper seal. If the mullion heater is misaligned or damaged, it can prevent the doors from closing properly. Inspect the mullion heater for any damage and replace it with a new one if necessary.

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Cause 18Clip

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Cause 19Door Support

A refrigerator door support is often used on French Door models to flip a mullion heater flap to seal the gap between the doors. If the door support is damaged or misaligned, the mullion heater flap may not be positioned appropriately for the door or doors to close completely. Inspect the support for damage and replace if necessary.

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Cause 20Door Guide

A door guide is often used on French door refrigerators to assist in flipping open a mullion heater flap to provide a seal between the two main doors. If the guide is damaged or misaligned, the flap may not engage accurately and prevent the doors from closing properly. Inspect the door guide (often attached to the inner liner at the top of the frame) and replace it with a new one if necessary.

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Cause 21Adhesive

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Cause 22Door Gasket

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Cause 23Drain Pipe

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Cause 24Hose

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Cause 25LED Light

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Cause 26Temperature Sensor

A temperature sensor monitors the temperature of the evaporator coils. If the coils are below a set temperature, the sensor will alert the defrost control to allow power to flow to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. In the defrost cycle, the defrost heater melts away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the temperature sensor is defective, the defrost control will not be alerted to allow voltage to be sent to the defrost heater.

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