Washer Stops Mid Cycle

Since a washing machine control board provides voltage to nearly all of the washer's electrical components, a board with a shorted component may send continuous voltage to the water inlet valve, causing the washer to overflow. You can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component and use a multimeter to test the power output terminals on the board after reviewing the appliance's wiring diagram. Some washing machine control boards will have a built-in pressure sensor used to determine how much water to allow into the tub. The control board pressure sensor monitors the amount of water entering the tub during the fill cycle and will shut off voltage to the water inlet valve when the water has reached the proper level. A defective control board pressure sensor may allow too much water to fill the tub resulting in the washer overflowing. You can use a multimeter to test for appropriate changes in electrical continuity to help determine if the component is defective.

The rear drum has a bearing or bearings in it to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. If the tub bearing system is defective the washer can become very noisy. On some machines bearings are sold separately from the rear drum, however we recommend replacing both the outer drum and bearing as an assembly if the manufacturer offers the components together because removing and pressing in the new bearing can be exceptionally difficult. Be aware that replacing the outer tub and bearing is also not easy and can be very costly.

The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch prevents the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer may stop mid cycle. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s diagram and use a multimeter to test each of the door lock switches for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.

Make sure the cold water supply is flowing into the tub. If the cold water supply is slow or not entering the tub at all, the washer will stop ahead of the rinse cycle while waiting for the tub to fill. This can be caused by a clogged water inlet valve, the main water supply valve being partially closed, or low water supply pressure from the home.

If a front-load washer is stopping mid-cycle, a broken shock absorber could be making the tub unbalanced and unable to spin or agitate properly. Inspect the shock absorbers for damage and replace if necessary - it is recommended that all shock absorbers be replaced at the same time for more even wear.

During the rinse cycle, the water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the wash tub. If the water inlet valve fails, the washer will continue waiting for the water to enter the washer, causing it to stop mid-cycle. To determine if the water inlet valve is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the water inlet valve does not have continuity, replace it.

The door lock secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch prevents the washer from operating. If the door lock is defective, the washer may stop mid cycle. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the door lock for damage. If the door lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s diagram and use a multimeter to test each of the door lock switches, if applicable, for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.

If a top-load washer is stopping mid-cycle, a broken suspension rod could be making the tub unbalanced and unable to spin or agitate properly. Inspect the suspension rods for damage and replace if necessary - it is recommended that all suspension rods be replaced at the same time for more even wear.

A washing machine drain pump assists in removing the water from the tub by forcing the water through a drain hose to a laundry tub or drain pipe. Since water may be drained from the tub multiple times during a wash cycle, a defective drain pump may stop the washer mid-cycle. If there is still water in the tub after the washer stops, inspect the drain pump for any obstruction. You can also use a multimeter to test the drain pump for electrical continuity to help determine if the pump is able to function or not.

The tub bearing is mounted in the middle of the outer tub. The tub bearing helps to keep the inner tub spinning smoothly. Replacing the tub bearing is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer. If the tub bearing is defective, we recommend replacing both the outer tub and bearing.

Too many items placed in the washer tub can put a strain on internal washer drive components resulting in vibration or shaking. Mixing heavy items (blankets, rugs) with lighter items (shirts, socks) can throw the tub off-balance when it spins, causing the appliance to vibrate, shake, or stop mid cycle. Wash heavy items separately from light items and avoid overloading the tub by referring to the manufacturer's recommended washing procedures

The main control board might be defective. However, the main control board is rarely at fault for this symptom. Before replacing the main control board, first check all of the more commonly defective parts.

The timer might be defective. The timer is frequently misdiagnosed—before replacing the timer, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. To determine if the timer is defective, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multimeter to test the timer for continuity.

The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch prevents the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer may stop mid cycle. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the latch for damage. If the latch is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, consult your washer’s diagram and use a multimeter to test each of the door latch switches, if applicable, for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.

Damper

Shift Actuator

Since a washing machine control panel controls nearly all of the washer's electrical components, a defective control panel could cause the washer to stop mid-cycle. Try each of the water temperature and cycle settings on the panel to see if the washer responds correctly. If some settings work while others do not, it's likely the panel is defective and should be replaced.