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Washer Fills Slowly or Will Not Fill at All

The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Washer fills slowly or will not fill at all are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.

Most Frequent Causes for Washer fills slowly or will not fill at all

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Cause 1Lid Switch Assembly

If you've confirmed the water inlet valve is receiving power and is functioning normally, you should determine if the washer tub is spinning during the spin cycle. If not, the lid switch assembly could be defective and responsible for the tub not filling as expected. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

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Cause 2Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve opens to allow water to enter the washing machine. If the water inlet valve is defective, the wash may fill slowly or not fill at all. The water inlet valve requires sufficient water pressure to function properly. First, check the water pressure to determine that it is adequate. If the water pressure is adequate, try cleaning the screens inside the water inlet valve hose connection ports. If the washer still fills slowly, replace the water inlet valve.

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Cause 3Control Board

Since a washing machine control board provides voltage to nearly all of the washer's electrical components, a faulty board may not be sending power to the inlet valve to open it and allow water to fill the tub. You can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component. You can also use a multimeter to test for incoming power to the inlet valve after reviewing the appliance's wiring diagram. If no voltage is present when the washer is in the fill cycle, it's likely the control board is defective and will need to be replaced.

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Cause 4Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home water pressure might be too low. The water inlet valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Check the water pressure to the valve to determine if it is sufficient.

Cause 5Temperature Switch

The temperature selector switch allows power to be sent to the water inlet valve to release hot or cold water. If the temperature selector switch is faulty, the valve may only allow only one temperature of water to fill the tub. You can use a multimeter to test the switch for electrical continuity. If the switch tests negative for continuity, the part will need to be replaced.

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Cause 6Water Supply Valves are Closed

Confirm that both the hot and cold water supply valves are open. If the valves are closed the washer won't fill to start the wash cycle.

Cause 7Water siphoning from tub

If the water is siphoning from the tub the outlet (end) of the drain hose is likely lower than the water level in the tub. The drain hose should terminate between 30” to 36” above the floor, depending on the model, in a standpipe or laundry tub. If the drain hose is sealed at the top of the standpipe or excess hose is pushed too far down into the pipe, siphoning can occur.

Cause 8Pressure Switch

The washing machine pressure switch has a tube attached to the side or the bottom of the tub. As water enters the tub, air pressure increases in the tube which will cause the pressure switch to interrupt voltage to the water inlet valve stopping the water flow once sufficient water has filled the tub. If the pressure switch is defective, it may prematurely shut off the voltage to the inlet valve resulting in the washer filling too little or not at all. After referring to the appliance's wiring diagram to identify the switch's terminals, you can use a multimeter to test the pressure switch for appropriate electrical continuity. Blowing into the attached tube should interrupt or restore continuity. If it does not, you'll know the part is faulty and will need to be replaced.

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Cause 9Main Control Board

Since a washing machine's main control board provides voltage to nearly all of the washer's electrical components, a faulty board may not be sending power to the inlet valve to open it and allow water to fill the tub. You can inspect the board for signs of burning or a shorted-out component. You can also use a multimeter to test for incoming power to the inlet valve after reviewing the appliance's wiring diagram. If no voltage is present when the washer is in the fill cycle, it's likely the control board is defective and will need to be replaced.

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Cause 10Clogged Screens in Fill Hose or Water Inlet Valve

All water valves have filter screens to prevent particles from clogging it up, or worse yet preventing the valve from closing. For added protection and easier access, some fill hoses may have screens added to the hose washers/gaskets where the fill hose connects to the homes hot or cold shut-off valve. The screens in the water valve and hoses should be checked and cleaned if necessary. Unplug the machine. Turn off the water supply valves. Get a bucket to catch the remaining water in the hoses. Unthread the hoses from your machine and check to see if there is a clog in the filter. A simple cleaning may do the trick to get your washer working again.

Cause 11Incorrect cycle selected

Make sure you are using the correct cycle settings for the type of clothes and options you need. For example, if the washer is set to an economy cycle, it will only use cold water. Refer to the owner's manual for reference

Cause 12Door Lock

The door lock secures the washer door during operation. Once the door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the door is not latched shut, the door switch will prevent the washer from operating. If the lock is defective, the washer may not fill. The lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the lock for damage. If the lock is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the lock has failed electrically, consult your washer’s wiring diagram and use a multimeter to test each of the lock switches, if applicable, for continuity.

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Cause 13Door Latch

The door latch secures the washer door shut during operation. Once the washer door is closed, the washer can begin operating. If the washer door is not latched shut, the door switch prevents the washer from operating. If the door latch is defective, the washer may not fill. The door latch can fail either mechanically or electrically. Inspect the latch for damage. If the latch is damaged or does not latch properly, replace it. To determine if the door latch has failed electrically, consult your washer’s diagram and use a multimeter to test each of the door latch switches, if applicable, for continuity. If one of the switches does not have continuity, replace the switch.

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