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Kenmore Dryer Takes Too Long

The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Dryer takes too long are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.

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Most Frequent Causes for Dryer takes too long

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Cause 1Air Flow Problem

If the vent is clogged or partially clogged, it will restrict the airflow through the dryer, substantially increasing the drying time. To ensure proper dryer performance, you should clean your dryer’s venting system at least once per year.

Cause 2Blower Wheel

The blower wheel works with the drive motor to draw air into the dryer drum. Clumps of lint, socks, and small articles of clothing can escape the lint filter and get caught in the blower wheel. In addition, the blower wheel sleeve can wear out, allowing the blower wheel to wobble on the motor shaft. If the blower wheel is obstructed or defective, it may take too long to dry clothes. To determine if the blower wheel is working properly, remove the dryer vent and assess the strength of the air flow. If the air flow is weak, check the blower wheel for obstructions. If no obstructions are present, try rotating the blower wheel by hand. If the blower wheel wobbles as it turns, replace it.

Parts
Cause 3Gas Valve Solenoid

Gas dryers have two or more gas valve solenoid coils. The gas valve solenoids open the gas valve to allow gas to flow into the burner assembly. Sometimes, a solenoid can fail several minutes into the drying cycle, causing the dryer to take a long time to dry the clothes. To determine if one or more of the gas valve solenoids has failed, check the igniter. If the igniter glows and goes out but does not ignite the gas, the gas valve solenoid is defective. If one or more of the gas valve coils are defective, we recommend that you replace them as a set.

Parts
Cause 4Heating Element

The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the heating element is burned out, or if any other part of the assembly is defective, the dryer may not heat. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.

Parts
Cause 5Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly warms the air as it passes over. If the heating element is burned out, or if any other part of the assembly is defective, the dryer may not heat. If the dryer doesn’t heat, the dryer will take a substantial amount of time to dry clothes. To determine if the heating element is at fault, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the heating element does not have continuity, replace it.

Parts
Cause 6Clogged lint filter

A clogged lint filter will cause a loss of air flow, which can lead to long drying times. In the worst case scenario, the dryer will overheat and eventually trip the thermal fuse. For the best drying performance, clean the lint filter before starting the dryer. If you use dryer sheets, residue can build up on the lint filter. If you cannot blow air through the dryer lint filter it will need to be cleaned with a brush, soap, water.

Cause 7Lint Filter

The lint filter might be clogged. Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the lint filter is clogged, clean it.

Parts
Cause 8Drive Motor

Drive Motor

Parts
Cause 9Control Board

Control Board

Parts
Cause 10Moisture Sensor

The moisture sensor monitors the clothing’s moisture level and sends a signal to the control board when the clothes are dry. If the moisture sensor is malfunctioning, it could inaccurately report that the clothing is still moist, causing the dryer to keep running even though the clothes are dry. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the moisture sensor check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the moisture sensor.

Parts
Cause 11High Limit Thermostat

The high-limit thermostat monitors the dryer temperature and shuts off the burner if the dryer overheats. If the high-limit thermostat is malfunctioning, it may shut off the burner even if the dryer is not overheating. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the high limit thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.

Parts
Cause 12Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat cycles the heat on and off to regulate the air temperature. If the cycling thermostat is defective, the dryer will not heat. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the cycling thermostat check all the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, test the thermostat by using a multimeter to test for continuity. If the thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.

Parts
Cause 13Thermistor

Some dryer models have a thermistor. The control board uses the thermistor to monitor the dryer temperature and cycle the heat on and off. If the thermistor is defective, it might not cycle the heat on, causing the clothes to not to dry properly.

Parts
Cause 14Thermal Fuse

The thermal fuse is a safety device designed to protect the dryer from overheating. The fuse is located on the blower housing or at the dryer’s heat source such as the heating element on electric dryers or at the burner on gas models. The fuse should be closed for continuity meaning it has a continuous electrical path through it when good. If the dryer overheats, the fuse will blow and interrupt voltage to the heating element or burner. A multimeter can be used to test the thermal fuse for electrical continuity. Be aware that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of a restricted exhaust vent from the dryer to the outside. Always check the dryer venting when replacing a blown thermal fuse.

Parts
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