The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Freezer not running are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.
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Freezer Indicator Light Is Out? Freezer TroubleshootingThe compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the freezer won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.
The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, the defrost timer is likely defective and should be replaced.
Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first check more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board.
Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first check more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board.
The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor. If the thermostat is not working, the refrigerant system will not get power and the freezer will not cool. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a “click.” If you hear a click, the thermostat is not likely defective. If you do not hear a click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
The user control and display board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control and display board, make sure you check more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, replace the user control and display board.
The start relay provides power to the compressor. If the start relay isn’t working properly, the compressor may run intermittently or may not run at all. If the compressor won’t run, the freezer will not cool. To determine if the start relay is defective, unplug the freezer and remove the start relay from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the start relay for continuity between the start and run terminals. If the start relay does not have continuity, or if it smells burnt, replace it.
The freezer's start device, like a start relay, provides power to the compressor. If the start device isn’t working properly, the compressor may run intermittently or may not run at all. If the compressor won’t run, the freezer will not cool. To determine if the start device is defective, unplug the freezer and remove the start device from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the start device for continuity between the start and run terminals. If the start device does not have continuity, or if it smells burnt, replace it.
If all the refrigeration components seem to be working but the freezer is not cooling properly, there may be a restriction or leak in the refrigeration system. To determine this, you will need to remove the evaporator cover (not applicable to chest freezers) and observe the frost pattern on the coil. Note: The compressor, condenser and evaporator fans should all be running, and the condenser coil should be clean and have good air flow. There should be light frost on most of the coil. If the coil has frost or ice buildup in only one section, there is likely a restriction or leak in the system. This repair is expensive (maybe cost prohibitive) and should be diagnosed and repaired by a qualified technician. ?
The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan motor is not working, the freezer will not cool. On most refrigerators, the fan motor will not run when the door is open. To check the evaporator fan motor, open the freezer door and then manually activate the freezer door switch. If the door switch is activated, but the evaporator fan motor won’t run, replace the evaporator fan motor.
Confirm the freezer is plugged in and there is power at the wall outlet. You can plug another small appliance into the outlet to confirm there is power. If there is no power, check the home circuit breakers or fuses. If the freezer is plugged into a circuit that has a ground fault interrupt, try resetting the outlet. Most manufacturers do not recommend using a ground fault outlet on a freezer.
The condenser fan motor draws air through the condenser and over the condenser coils. If the condenser fan is not running, check the fan blades for obstructions. Next, ensure that the blades spin freely. If the fan blades do not spin freely, the fan motor bearings are worn out, and the fan motor should be replaced. If no obstructions are present, and the fan blades spin freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.
If the condenser coils are located within the freezer walls, the coils do not require cleaning. However, if the condenser coils can be readily accessed from behind or under the unit, you should clean them every 6-12 months. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t be able to dissipate heat effectively, greatly reducing the cooling capacity of the freezer. If the condenser coils are dirty or have not been cleaned in a while, clean them.
