The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Freezer not freezing are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.
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Control Board
If the condenser coils are located within the freezer walls, the coils do not require cleaning. However, if the condenser coils can be readily accessed from behind or under the unit, you should clean them every 6-12 months. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won’t be able to dissipate heat effectively, greatly reducing the cooling capacity of the freezer. If the condenser coils are dirty or have not been cleaned in a while, clean them.
The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan motor is not working, the freezer will not cool. On most refrigerators, the fan motor will not run when the door is open. To check the evaporator fan motor, open the freezer door and then manually activate the freezer door switch. If the door switch is activated, but the evaporator fan motor won’t run, replace the evaporator fan motor.
The start relay provides power to the compressor. If the start relay isn’t working properly, the compressor may run intermittently or may not run at all. If the compressor won’t run, the freezer will not cool. To determine if the start relay is defective, unplug the freezer and remove the start relay from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the start relay for continuity between the start and run terminals. If the start relay does not have continuity, or if it smells burnt, replace it.
Confirm the freezer is plugged in and there is power at the wall receptacle. You can plug another small appliance into the recepticle to confirm there is power. If there is no power, confirm the circuit breaker has not tripped.
Filter Drier
Defrost Heater Assembly
The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser and over the condenser coils. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, it won’t draw air through the condenser, causing the refrigerator not to cool. If the condenser fan motor is not running, check the fan blades for obstructions. Next, ensure that the blades spin freely. If the fan blades do not spin freely, the fan motor bearings are worn out, and the fan motor should be replaced. If no obstructions are present, and the fan blades spin freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.
Door Gasket
If there is a lot of frost accumulation on the food and around the door opening, It is likely the door was not closed properly for a lengthy period. Ensure the door closes properly and that there is no food, racks or containers obstructing the door.
The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor. If the thermostat is not working, the refrigerant system will not get power and the freezer will not cool. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a “click.” If you hear a click, the thermostat is not likely defective. If you do not hear a click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
The user control and display board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control and display board, make sure you check more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, replace the user control and display board.
Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first check more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board.
The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the freezer won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.
The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system. The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the defrost heater won’t turn on, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will eventually frost over. To determine if the defrost heater is at fault, use a multimeter to test the defrost heater for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it. On most chest freezers the evaporator coils are hidden in the walls. Some upright freezers utilize the shelves for the evaporator coils. These types of coils would need to be manually defrosted.
The freezer's start device, like a start relay, provides power to the compressor. If the start device isn’t working properly, the compressor may run intermittently or may not run at all. If the compressor won’t run, the freezer will not cool. To determine if the start device is defective, unplug the freezer and remove the start device from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the start device for continuity between the start and run terminals. If the start device does not have continuity, or if it smells burnt, replace it.
