The part(s) or condition(s) listed below for the symptom Freezer not freezing are ordered from most likely to least likely to occur. Check or test each item, starting with the items at the top of the page.
The thermistor monitors the freezer temperature and sends the temperature reading to the control board. The control board regulates power to the compressor and evaporator fan based on the thermistor readings. If the thermistor is defective, the compressor and evaporator fan may not run when necessary. As a result, the freezer may not freeze properly. To determine if the thermistor is defective, test it with a multimeter. The thermistor resistance should change in conjunction with the freezer temperature. If the thermistor resistance does not change, or the thermistor does not have continuity, replace the thermistor.
Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first check more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board.
If the condenser coils are located within the freezer walls, the coils do not require cleaning. However, if the condenser coils can be readily accessed from behind or under the unit, you should clean them every 6 to 12 months by using a soft bristle brush (or a dedicated condenser coil cleaning brush) to wipe off the coils in a circular motion. A vacuum cleaner with a nozzle attachment can also be used for hard-to-reach areas.
The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator coils and circulates it throughout the freezer. If the evaporator fan motor is not working, the freezer will not cool. On most refrigerators, the fan motor will not run when the door is open. To check the evaporator fan motor, open the freezer door and then manually activate the freezer door switch. If the door switch is activated, but the evaporator fan motor won’t run, replace the evaporator fan motor.
The start relay provides power to the compressor. If the start relay isn’t working properly, the compressor may run intermittently or may not run at all. If the compressor won’t run, the freezer will not cool. To determine if the start relay is defective, unplug the freezer and remove the start relay from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the start relay for continuity between the start and run terminals. If the start relay does not have continuity, or if it smells burnt, replace it.
Confirm the freezer is plugged in and there is power at the wall receptacle. You can plug another small appliance into the receptacle to confirm there is power. If there is no power, check the circuit breakers and GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) outlets, if applicable, to confirm they have not tripped, or inspect any fuses to confirm none have blown. Plugging the unit’s power cord into a ground fault outlet is not recommended, but such an outlet can be reset to restore power by pressing in the button on the faceplate.
If all the refrigeration components seem to be working but the freezer is not cooling properly, there may be a restriction or leak in the refrigeration system. To determine this, you will need to remove the evaporator cover (not applicable to chest freezers) and observe the frost pattern on the coil. Note: The compressor, condenser and evaporator fans should all be running, and the condenser coil should be clean and have good air flow. There should be light frost on most of the coil. If the coil has frost or ice buildup in only one section, there is likely a restriction or leak in the system. This repair is expensive (maybe cost prohibitive) and should be diagnosed and repaired by a qualified technician.
The filter drier works with the freezer's compressor to help remove moisture from the refrigerant lines. While the component is not usually the cause of a cooling problem on its own, the filter drier is often replaced as part of a sealed system repair where the compressor and evaporator are also replaced.
The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the defrost heater does not turn on, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils which can prevent the freezer from freezing properly. To determine if the defrost heater is at fault, use a multimeter to test the defrost heater for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.
The condenser fan motor draws air though the condenser and over the condenser coils. If the condenser fan motor is not working properly, it won’t draw air through the condenser, causing the refrigerator not to cool. If the condenser fan motor is not running, check the fan blades for obstructions. Next, ensure that the blades spin freely. If the fan blades do not spin freely, the fan motor bearings are worn out, and the fan motor should be replaced. If no obstructions are present, and the fan blades spin freely, use a multimeter to test the fan motor for continuity. If the condenser fan motor does not have continuity, replace it.
The door gasket prevents air from leaking into or out of the freezer. If the door gasket is torn or not creating a reliable seal, or if the freezer is not shut tightly, humid air can leak into the freezer. When this humid air passes over the cold evaporator coils, it condenses and freezes on the coils. If humid air is continually leaking into the freezer, the evaporator coils ice over too quickly, and the defrost cycle isn’t able to keep up which can prevent the freezer from freezing properly. To determine if the gasket is creating a reliable seal, close the freezer door on a dollar bill and try to pull the dollar bill out of the freezer door. If the dollar bill sticks in place, the gasket is creating a good seal. If the dollar bill slides out or falls out, the gasket has a leak. Repeat this procedure all the way around the refrigerator door. If, at any point, the dollar bill does not stick, the gasket is defective. If the door gasket is defective, replace it.
If there is a lot of frost accumulation on the food and around the door opening, it is likely the door was not closed properly for a lengthy period. Ensure the door closes properly and that there is no food, racks, or containers obstructing the door.
After a power surge or power outage, freezer operation could be temporarily affected. Full operation can sometimes be restored through a power reset by either unplugging the appliance's power cord for a few seconds and then plugging it back in or switching off the circuit breaker for the freezer then switching it back on.
The temperature control thermostat directs voltage to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor. If the thermostat is not working, the refrigerant system will not get power and the freezer will not cool. To determine if the thermostat is defective, rotate the thermostat from the lowest setting to the highest setting and listen for a “click.” If you hear a click, the thermostat is not likely defective. If you do not hear a click, use a multimeter to test the thermostat for continuity. If the temperature control thermostat does not have continuity, replace it.
The user control and display board might be defective. However, this is rarely the case. Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control and display board, make sure you check more commonly defective parts. If you determine that all of the other components are working properly, replace the user control and display board.
Control boards are often misdiagnosed—before replacing the control board, first check more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, replace the main control board.
If the run capacitor is defective, the compressor will be unable to cycle on resulting in the freezer not working. You can test the capacitor with a multimeter to determine whether it's functioning correctly or not. If the run capacitor is bulging or leaking, replace it.
The compressor is a pump which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If the compressor is not working, the freezer won’t cool. However, this is rarely the case. Before replacing the compressor, first check all of the more commonly defective parts. If you have determined that all of the other components are working properly, check the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the continuity between the electrical pins on the side of the compressor. If there is an open circuit, the compressor is likely defective. If the compressor is defective, it must be replaced by a licensed technician.
The most common cause for this condition is a problem with the defrost system. The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. If the defrost heater won’t turn on, frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils, and the coils will eventually frost over. To determine if the defrost heater is at fault, use a multimeter to test the defrost heater for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it. On most chest freezers the evaporator coils are hidden in the walls. Some upright freezers utilize the shelves for the evaporator coils. These types of coils would need to be manually defrosted.
The freezer's start device, like a start relay, provides power to the compressor. If the start device isn’t working properly, the compressor may run intermittently or may not run at all. If the compressor won’t run, the freezer will not cool. To determine if the start device is defective, unplug the freezer and remove the start device from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test the start device for continuity between the start and run terminals. If the start device does not have continuity, or if it smells burnt, replace it.